The Quiet Observer of San Sebastián Ignacio Ugarte lived a life shaped by the light and the salt of San Sebastián. Born in the late 1850s or early 1860s, he moved through the world with a dual focus, having studied Law at the Universidad Central de Madrid before turning his attention to the canvas. His hands were as comfortable with the logic of legal studies as they were with the textures of oil and pigment. He did not merely paint s…